Hyperpigmentation vs. Melasma

What’s the difference?

Let us help break down these key differentiators.

By Jessica Cipriano, RN

Melasma and other hyperpigmentation disorders are two of the most commonly treated skin concerns each Fall. Hyperpigmentation is the general term used to categorize skin disorders involving an excess of the pigment, melanin, on the surface of the skin. This unwanted pigment can appear as freckling caused by sun damage, larger dark spots often called sun spots or liver spots, dark spots left behind after inflammation from an acne lesion or other injury as well as conditions like eczema, psoriasis. 


Melasma

As we mentioned above, melasma is a common skin disorder affecting over 5 million Americans. It causes brown to brownish-gray patches, usually on the face. 


Causes


What causes melasma is not completely clear. It likely occurs when the pigment-producing cells called melanocytes produce too much color. People with darker skin are more prone to melasma because they have more active melanocytes than people with light skin.

Common melasma triggers include:

  • Sun exposure: Ultraviolet (UV) light from the sun stimulates the melanocytes. In fact, just a small amount of sun exposure can make melasma return after fading. Sun exposure is why melasma often is worse in summer. It also is the main reason why many people with melasma get it again and again.

  • A change in hormones: Pregnant women often get melasma. When melasma appears in pregnant women, it is called chloasma, or the mask of pregnancy. Birth control pills and hormone replacement medicine can also trigger melasma.

Signs/Symptoms

Melasma is frequently seen on the cheeks, bridge of the nose, forehead, chin, and above the upper lip. It also can appear on other parts of the body that get lots of sun, such as the forearms and neck. Melasma does not cause any symptoms, but many patients do not like the way that it makes their skin appear. 

MAC Procedures

Since many patients have different triggers for their melasma, a consultation is required to determine which treatments are best for each patient. Heat is a trigger for many melasma patients making procedures like BBL Forever Young and chemicals peels out of the question for such patients. In these cases, we often start with medical grade and prescription skincare to fade the melasma.

MAC Skincare Products

Generally speaking, melasma patients respond incredibly well to a regimen involving morning antioxidant products like Daily Power Defense by ZO Skin Health. A 4% hydroquinone cream is also applied each morning, followed by a broad spectrum sunscreen. In the evenings, patients are prescribed a retinoid and hydroquinone combination therapy. The hydroquinone suppresses the cells responsible for the excess pigment as well as lightens the affected skin, while the retinoid speeds skin cell turnover to clear the skin at a more rapid rate. 

After a few months of this skincare regimen, patients will transition to a maintenance regimen which includes Daily Power Defense, 10% Self-Activating Vitamin C, and AlphRet Overnight.

Hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation is a broad term referring to any disorder involving an excess of the pigment called melanin in our skin. Freckles, dark spots, sun spots, liver spots, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation are just a few forms. 

Causes

When our skin is damaged by the sun, the damage stimulates a type of cell called a melanocyte to produce more melanin. With repeated damage, the melanin is overproduced and deposited into layers of the skin where we do not want it. This is how freckles, dark spots, and other forms of hyperpigmentation occur. It makes sense that if sun damage is the cause of the unwanted pigmentation changes, that we could prevent the damage and see less hyperpigmentation. This is where SPF or sunscreen comes into play. It is our number one anti-aging product as 80% of age related changes come from sun exposure.

Signs/Symptoms

Freckles, dark spots, uneven skin tone, post-acne marks and more are all signs of hyperpigmentation. Patients who are dissatisfied with their skin may benefit from the following procedures and products. 

MAC Procedures

BBL Forever Young is just one of many treatments that can treat hyperpigmentation. In as little as a single session without any social downtime, patients can experience a dramatic reduction in unwanted dark spots. The treatment uses light energy to lift the dark spots of the skin in as little as 7-10 days.

Other treatments include chemical peels like our 3-Step Peel, Morpheus8, dermaplaning and Hydrafacial with a brightening booster.

MAC Skincare

Popular products to treat hyperpigmentation include Daily Power Defense, Brightalive, one of our broad spectrum sunscreens, AlphaRet Overnight, and our prescription hydroquinone products. If patients are able to undergo procedures such as BBl Forever Young, hydroquinone regimens are not generally required. 

Jessica Cipriano